The ferry to cross to Saaremaa is quick and efficient, you take it from Virtsu to the island of Hiiumaa and then cross a causeway to Saaremaa itself. It is only a 35 minute crossing but it was good value at €12.90 (one-way) on a very modern ship. Not quite full but a good load of about 50 cars, a few lorries and 20 motorbikes. Very quick loading and unloading and nobody waving and shouting in a language you don’t understand. Also free wifi on board.
The ferry to Saaraama
Kuressaare Castle
We then went pretty well the length of Saaremaa to Tehumardi Camping near the Sõrve peninsula. This is a delightful open campsite with good facilities and €14 per night for stays of 3 nights or more.
N58°10’46” E22°15’15”
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From the campsite we made daily forays in the motorhome to beaches, woods and into Kuressaare, the only largish town on the island. Next to the very fine C14th castle we had an interesting meal in the Spa Hall which – and this is a compliment –Sheila reckoned looked like a C19th Australian railway station, Victorian period wooden building with fancy fretwork. Sheila had a tench fillet – a fish found in England but not eaten – and Gilroy tried a garfish despite having no idea what this was. This turned out to be an eel-like fish (but with a long pointy mouth) about 18 inches long and – he soon discovered – a blue spine and lots of fine bones which needed picking out. The garfish didn’t really taste of anything much, which is perhaps better than the dirt taste of the tench. An interesting meal, but neither of us would try it again.
One of the highlights was coming across a family of foxes – mother and three cubs – on a remote road.They didn’t seem bothered by our presence and the cubs were positively curious.
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We didn’t see much birdlife on our rural walks but we saw some interesting orchids and flowers, including one
we called Bog Cotton which grew in thick clumps boggy areas. There were also areas of Yellow Flag.
we called Bog Cotton which grew in thick clumps boggy areas. There were also areas of Yellow Flag.
We did a longish (10km) walk to the Kiipsaare lighthouse on the Harilaid Peninsula in the Vilsandi National
Park. The lighthouse is mainly famous for leaning
over and being in the sea when it used to be on land, but apparently it doesn’t lean as much as it used to. The area is fabulously open and isolated – perhaps because it was about 10 miles down a rough and dusty gravel road and not particularly well signposted.
Park. The lighthouse is mainly famous for leaning
over and being in the sea when it used to be on land, but apparently it doesn’t lean as much as it used to. The area is fabulously open and isolated – perhaps because it was about 10 miles down a rough and dusty gravel road and not particularly well signposted.
While we on Saaremaa we visited the 100m wide Kaali
meteor crater and then the Angla windmills where there was a nice little cafe and museum and a shop selling rather attractive gifts made from Dolomite. We are old enough to remember the Triumph of the same name but this is polished stone that comes up like marble and the interior of the cafe was made of this stuff.
We also stopped off at the C14th Karja church which has a fine crucifixion scene on one wall and a wonderfully secure donations box.
meteor crater and then the Angla windmills where there was a nice little cafe and museum and a shop selling rather attractive gifts made from Dolomite. We are old enough to remember the Triumph of the same name but this is polished stone that comes up like marble and the interior of the cafe was made of this stuff.
We also stopped off at the C14th Karja church which has a fine crucifixion scene on one wall and a wonderfully secure donations box.
Karja Church
Karja Church, note the spirits leaving the mouths of the two thieves
Crater lake
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