Pamukkale & Hierapolis
Pamukkale
Travertines
We did another early start – 7am – heading for Pamukkale. The Garmin did not recognise the existence of the main road north so was ignored while we climbed almost non-stop before ending up in beautiful fertile valleys at about 4,500 feet, surrounded by beautiful green hills and some serious looking mountains – still with a bit of snow. We were heading for a campsite recommended by the Akcakil Dutch but turned off a few hundred yards too early and stayed at Camping Yigit (40YTKL a night but the washing machine was free and the owner was very friendly) – directly opposite the stunning travertines.
Another early start – we were through the gate (entry fee 20YTL each, including Hieropolis) and on to the Travertines by 7am, walking barefoot (as required) on fairly grippy calcium carbonate with warm water running over our tootsies. The pools formed by the flow of water are beautifully shaped and have stunning blue colour. We got to the top just as the first busload of Japanese tourists arrived.
Old postcards and guide books show people frolicking in large travertines but this is no longer possible now as the maintenance of the site has been taken over by World Heritage but it is still possible to paddle in some of the travertines, although not in the ones in the above photo.There are guards with whistles for people who contravene the rules.
Our guidebook had suggested that the place was “not what it was” and we nearly did not go but it is still a fantastic place to visit.
The travertines are formed by calcium carbonate deposited by the warm thermal water, it looks like snow but is hard and is some places a bit sharp underfoot so walk carefully, don't be tempted to slip your shoes back on - you get whistled at by the guards who are on patrol looking out for misbehaviour.
Our guidebook had suggested that the place was “not what it was” and we nearly did not go but it is still a fantastic place to visit.
The travertines are formed by calcium carbonate deposited by the warm thermal water, it looks like snow but is hard and is some places a bit sharp underfoot so walk carefully, don't be tempted to slip your shoes back on - you get whistled at by the guards who are on patrol looking out for misbehaviour.
Hierapolis
We entered the Travertines from the lower entrance near to town and walked up the hill to the top and then we then strolled around the Roman spa town of Hierapolis which, because of the warm water had once thrived – it is massive, with some very fine sarcophagi, an excellent latrine, a huge theatre (this is our fifth Roman theatre in Turkey, and we have a long way to go yet), big baths (one still in use – 25TL entry fee – full of Russians) and more temples than you could shake a stick at. The Italians were the ones who were responsible for the archaeological restoration and they started in 1957 and finished in 2000.
In one temple an oracle used to operate by sitting over a crack in the ground from which poisonous fumes emerged (chickens and small animals were used to show the noxiousness of the emanation) but she only spoke in riddles which then had to be interpreted by priestesses. A bit like listening to an economic forecast.
In one temple an oracle used to operate by sitting over a crack in the ground from which poisonous fumes emerged (chickens and small animals were used to show the noxiousness of the emanation) but she only spoke in riddles which then had to be interpreted by priestesses. A bit like listening to an economic forecast.
The theatre has been nicely restored but the rest is mainly ruins due to earthquakes, but they are still a tribute to Roman over-engineering: who else builds an indoor swimming pool which lasts the better part of 2,000 years? We paid an extra 3YTL to go into the museum which had the best sarcophagi and statues.
When the place was being restored calcium carbonate deposits with a depth of 2 metres had to be drilled off the Roman road - this is an indication of how quickly these travertines can form, that is 2 metres in roughly 2,000 years. A regular stalagmite would be a mere pimple on the ground over a similar period.
The travertines and the ancient Roman town are both on the World Heritage list, so there is another one ticked off that list.
The site is open 24 hours so it is possible to go really early and miss the crowds although on the day we left we saw five tourist coaches arrive by 7am.
When the place was being restored calcium carbonate deposits with a depth of 2 metres had to be drilled off the Roman road - this is an indication of how quickly these travertines can form, that is 2 metres in roughly 2,000 years. A regular stalagmite would be a mere pimple on the ground over a similar period.
The travertines and the ancient Roman town are both on the World Heritage list, so there is another one ticked off that list.
The site is open 24 hours so it is possible to go really early and miss the crowds although on the day we left we saw five tourist coaches arrive by 7am.
 The Latrines |
 bored statue in the museum |
We stopped at the swimming pool café for some warm borek and peach nectar for breakfast and didn’t get back to the motorhome until almost mid-day and only left the site because it was beginning to get very hot.
That afternoon we had a dip in the swimming pool of an adjoining restaurant (our host had told us we could use it at no cost but this sounded a bit vague so we bought two cups of tea – still good value) – we had to swim because it was all 2m deep with no shallow end. The pool was fed by the water from the Travertines, so very blue, full of dissolved calcium carbonate but no longer warm.
Next stop Ephesus Click here for one of Turkey's main attractions.
That afternoon we had a dip in the swimming pool of an adjoining restaurant (our host had told us we could use it at no cost but this sounded a bit vague so we bought two cups of tea – still good value) – we had to swim because it was all 2m deep with no shallow end. The pool was fed by the water from the Travertines, so very blue, full of dissolved calcium carbonate but no longer warm.
Next stop Ephesus Click here for one of Turkey's main attractions.
